Edward C. Lord to To George F. Seward, April 4, 1877

Mr. Lord to Mr. Seward.

Sir: In my dispatch No. 72 I informed you that I had received a communication from Admiral Reynolos, saying that, in compliance with your request, he would direct the steamer Palos to be at Ningpo in time to convey me to Wên-Chow by the 20th of March, at which time it was understood that port would be opened for foreign trade.

The Palos reached here on the 11th of March, but I did not think it desirable to leave for Wên-Chow before the 19th. We left on the 19th, and reached the place called the “Anchorage,” in the Wên-Chow River, some five miles below the city, the next day at two o’clock in the afternoon. It was thought necessary to anchor there and await the flood tide the next morning. The next morning, the flood tide making, the steamer went up to the city.

There had been some doubt as to whether vessels of any considerable size could get up to the city. But the Palos, drawing twelve or thirteen feet, had no difficulty; and from the soundings taken, I judge that at high water vessels of much larger draught could go up; and when up there was good safe anchorage. While we were there the Chinese gunboat No. 10 (I do not know her draught, but she was a vessel of considerable size) came in and went out, and I heard of no difficulty. I took some pains to find out what prospect trading-vessels visiting this port had of reaching the city, and from all I could learn I think their prospect is favorable. Very large vessels are not likely to go there, and I think will find little difficulty beyond that of waiting, when necessary, for high water. And if there should be vessels too deep to venture up to the city, at nearest they would not need to lie more than five or six miles below it. The river clear up to the city is quite wide. It has, however, many shoals; and from “Anchorage” up the channel I believe is somewhat narow and crooked.

The city of Wên-Chow is of the same class as Ningpo, hut is, I judge, less in size and population. The country about, as to hills, plains, and water-courses, resembles Ningpo, only the hills come nearer to the river and to the city. Indeed, the hills in some places reach the river; and there are several small hills inclosed or partly inclosed by the city wall. The general appearance of the country from the harbor is very pleasant. The city is an irregular square or rectangle, lying on the south bank of the river. The north or opposite bank of the river would have been a much pleasanter place for a town. A town located there would have been more open to the southern breeze in summer, while it would have been better protected by the hills back of it from the cold northern winds in winter. Then, too, a great desideratum, residences facing the south would have looked out on this broad and beautiful river.

The streets of the city are somewhat irregular, but they are cleaner and better paved than most that I have seen elsewhere in China. The houses and shops are by no means large or elegant. There is, however, an air of stir about them. The people seem generally busy.

The business of the place seemed to be small, or at least to be done in small portions. I did not notice any large warehouses or any considerable amount of transportation going on, either by boat or coolies. It was not, I suppose, the season for business, and in a business point the place may have appeared to disadvantage. Still there were quite a number of junks in the harbor, and loaded junks were every day arriving and departing.

Soon after our arrival I was introduced to a native gentleman, who was a person of intelligence, and. who, I learned, was the leading merchant of the place. He seemed to think that the place had natural resources for a considerable trade. It only needed capital and enterprise to develop it, and these he seemed to hope would now come to it. I asked him what natural products there would be for exportation. He said the chief of these would be alum, iron, tea, and lumber. The imports would of course be such as the Chinese needed else where; but these might not be large, as the transportation inland was somewhat difficult.

As soon as convenient after our arrival I communicated with the Tao-t’ai. He had acted as such officer a short time in this place some eight or ten years ago, when I had made his acquaintance. In my call on him Commander Wise accompanied me, and his call in return was received on board the Palos. We called also on the district magistrate, this being necessary in order to facilitate arrangements in the matter of a foreign settlement. Both these officers were very courteous and obliging in all our intercourse with them, and I must add that while we were there I neither saw nor heard anything on the part of the officials or people but what was entirely friendly. And from all I could learn, there was a general feeling of gratification in the prospect of foreign intercourse; and I think that it is more than probable that much of this confidence and good feeling is owing to the just and kind behavior of a couple of English missionaries, who have been laboring there for several years. Among the circumstances that gave me this impression I may mention this: The Chinese gentleman to whom I have referred as the head merchant and leading man of the place invited Commander Wise and myself to dine with him. We accepted his invitation, and found as our fellow-guests these two gentlemen, who our host said were his intimate and good friends.

Some time previous to our visit to Wên-Chow, I had learned from the papers, as also from other sources, that the port had been visited by Mr. Davenport, British consul at Shanghai, and that while there he had arranged with the Chinese authorities for a British concession. On our arrival there and making inquiry in regard to this matter, I was shown the ground conceded, and minutely informed as to its boundaries and terms of concession. These terms seemed to have been carefully considered, and I judged them to be both liberal and fair. They were put in the form of a joint arrangement, which was signed and sealed in duplicate by both parties. Inclosure No. 1 is a copy, with a hasty translation into English, of this document.

I had not, you know, been definitely instructed as to the course I should take in such a matter, but I deemed it safe and right to ask for ourselves whatever had been conceded to others. In this matter of course we could not have the choice of locality. The English had already procured this. But with this exception, which, after all, may prove to be of no very great importance, we have obtained all that they have. The concessions are equal in size, and they lie side by side on the south or city bank of the river. That of the English is nearer to the city; but ours, even the farthest limit of it, is little, if any, more than a mile away. The ground of them both is low, and at present does not look particularly inviting j but for the purpose intended it seems the most eligible place there is near the city.

Our agreement or deed of concession (a copy and translation of which you will find in inclosure No. 2) is, as you will see, much the same as that of the English. And, as you will also see, either of them can be given up, if not approved, or altered if the place should prove inconvenient and a better one can be found.

I informed the Chinese officials that Wên-Chow, in regard to American interests, was at present under my jurisdiction; that it was contemplated to have a consular agent there as soon as convenient, and that till then they could communicate directly with me at Ningpo should anything arise needing my attention.

On reaching Wên-Chow I found some officers of the customs already there. Mr. H. E. Hobson, commissioner, was in charge. I asked this gentleman, in case any American vessels should enter the port before the consular officer should be there, to allow them to enter at and clear from his office, their papers on entering to be deposited with him; and he kindly consented to do so.

I have not yet found any suitable person to nominate for consular agent. It is desirable, of course, that such officer should be an American citizen. But if no suitable American can be found going there who would be willing to accept it, what would you think of nominating one of some other nationality?

I have, &c.,