By the President: W. Hunter to Alfred Dennis, June 1, 1877

Mr. Hunter to Mr. Dennis.

Sir: I had the honor in a former communication to acknowledge the receipt of your instructions (No. 6063), dated 3d March last, respecting a survey of the Stickine River, for the purpose of defining the boundary line where it crosses that river between the Dominion and the Territory of Alaska.

The following extract from the instructions above alluded to shows in a general way the nature of the duties intrusted to me, and the information furnished for my guidance:

“I have the honor, by direction of the minister of the interior, to instruct you to proceed with as little delay as possible to the Stickine River, for the purpose of making such a survey thereof and such a reconnaissance of the country embracing the Coast Range of mountains in the immediate vicinity as will enable you to ascertain with approximate accuracy the boundary on the said river between the Dominion and the Territory of Alaska.

“The boundary in question, where it crosses the river named, is described in articles 3 and 4 of the convention between Russia and Great Britain, of February ½ 6/8, 1825, a copy of which you will receive herewith, with certain tracings, as follows, that is to say:

• “(D) Of the admiralty chart, showing the general direction of the coast (the line of the later opposite the Stickine being shaded yellow), also the points A and B, hereinafter referred to.
• “(E) Of part of the United States hydrographic chart of Alaska.
• “(F) Of a sketch, hereinafter alluded to, as made by his honor Chief Justice Begbie.” Having in view the possibility of carrying out the survey previous to the breaking up of the ice on the river, a party was organized with the least possible delay, and suitable provision made for the successful accomplishment of the work to be undertaken.

We left Victoria by the Hudson’s Bay Company’s steamer Otter, on the evening of the 27th March, and arrived at the United States military post of Fort Wrangel on the 2d of April. The same day the party went into camp at the month of the Stickine River, 8 miles N. 4° 50ʹ E. from Wrangel.

The survey was commenced on the 3d April. A correct transit-line was run along the valley of the river, mostly on the ice, a distance of about 54 miles, and the whole work finished on the 3d May.

The Otter, for which we waited five days, arrived at Wrangel on the 9th, and by her we sailed thence on the same day, reaching Victoria on the 15th May.

Before proceeding to detail results of this survey, it seems desirable briefly to notice the prominent mountain ranges and other physical features of British Columbia.

A continuation of the main Rocky Mountain Range extends from the southern boundary of the province, in latitude 49° north and longitude about 114° west, in a north westerly direction.

A spur or subsidiary range, branching off from the main range near latitude 55° north, runs westerly and joins the eastern spurs of the coast, or, as it is sometimes called, the Cascade Range, about latitude 56°.

The general summit of the Rocky Mountains up to the fifty-fifth parallel of north latitude determines the water-shed of the continent and the eastern boundary of the province.

The western slope of this range, with its numerous spurs and isolated ridges, is drained by the rivers Fraser and Columbia, the former lying wholly in British Columbia, and draining an area of 66,000 square miles.

The Coast Range originates near the mouth of the Fraser River, in about latitude 49° 10ʹ north, and longitude 122° 30ʹ west, and runs in a northwesterly direction. The general bearing of its axis is nearly parallel to the average trend of the western coast as far north as latitude 56°, from whence the range bends slightly eastward to its junction with the Rocky Mountain spur above alluded to.

This range forms the climatic division between the arid uplands of the interior and the low humid country on the Pacific seaboard. The water-shed between the great basin of the Fraser River and the waters of the Pacific lies to the eastward of the Coast Range, and approaches at its extreme western limit to within 18 miles of Gardiner’s Channel, an arm of the sea.

These mountain ranges can be identified with tolerable distinctness as far north as latitude 56°. Beyond that latitude, however, the system becomes more complex and confused and its prominent features more subdued.

The main coast range is supposed to extend into Alaska, branching off northeasterly towards the headwaters of Peace River, from whence the Rocky Mountains Range extends beyond the origin of the Yonkon River and its tributary the Porcupine.

An inferior range, known as the “Blue Mountains,” diverges from the main coast range, opposite the source of the most easterly branch of the Skeena River, and, stretching northerly in a direction nearly parallel to the main Peace River, meets the eastern spur of the coast range about the sixtieth parallel of latitude. In the loop thus formed the rivers Skeena, Narse, and Stickine take their rise.

Another range is supposed to originate somewhere in the neighborhood of Portland Channel, in latitude 55° north, and running apparently about parallel to the coast, its axis crosses the Stickine River 24¾ miles from its mouth. Mount Whipple, the highest peak on the river, lies on this axis. It will be more particularly referred to hereafter.

From latitude 58° 40ʹ north, or 150 miles to the north of the Stickine, the coast line for 200 miles farther northward has been accurately surveyed by the United States Coast Survey, and the position of the adjacent mountain range determined and laid down on the charts.

The summit of this range is shown to run parallel to the coast, distant from it 13 to 20 miles.

The position and altitude of five of the highest peaks were accurately determined.

Mount Crillon, the most southerly, in latitude 58° 40ʹ north, and longitude 136° 58ʹ west, is 15,900 feet above the sea, and distant from the coast-line 13 miles.

Mount Saint Elias, the most northerly, in latitude 60° 20ʹ 45ʺ north, longitude 141° 0ʹ 12ʺ west, has an altitude of 19,500 feet above sea-level, and distant 20 miles from the coast.

The latter is by far the highest mountain on the North American continent, and nearly one-fourth higher than the loftiest mountain in Europe.

From Mount Saint Elias the boundary-line between Alaska and British Columbia runs due north along the one hundred and forty-first meridian to the Frozen Ocean.

There is reason to believe that the range from the southward, crossing the Stickine River, as above described, runs northward along the coast till merged in the Saint Elias Range. Its snowy summits can be seen stretching for many miles along the seaboard to the north. It is undoubtedly the range of “mountains parallel to the coast” referred to in the convention.

Between the range known as the Blue Mountains and the mountainous zone on the Pacific stretches a wide, rolling plain, similar in character and appearance to the southerly elevated plateau of British Columbia, of which it is no doubt a continuation.

The Stackine, or Stickine, River rises by three branches in this plain, near the western spurs of the Blue Mountains. One branch heads far to the south of the river-mouth, and, flowing northward, joins the middle and northern branches about latitude 57° 30ʹ north. The river then flows northwesterly to about latitude 58° 45ʹ, where it makes a long sweep to the westward, and, on a course about southwest, reaches the eastern flanks of the coast mountains at the Grand Rapid, 105 miles from the sea, and probably 300 miles from the source.

There is nothing known of a remarkable character in connection with the river thus far. The climate of the country through which it runs for the first 150 miles is said to be mild, the current sluggish, and the volume of water small. Its main tributaries are received in the last 250 miles of its course, and for this distance the current is swift.

Opposite a point on the river 230 miles from its mouth, 4 miles to the westward, lies Dease Lake, the waters of which flow into McKenzie River by the Dease and Peace Rivers.

About half-way between Dease Lake and the Stickine, or two miles from either, is a point on the water-shed of the Arctic and Pacific Oceans. Its elevation above the lake and river is about 100 feet, and above the sea, 2,000.

It will thus be seen that the great river systems of the two oceans overlap each other nearly 200 miles.

Some of the most valuable mines in the rich gold mining district of Cassiar are found on the western branches of Dease River, and the auriferous belt to which the above name applies lies close upon the Stickine in this neighborhood to the westward.

The small mountain-town of Glenora is situated on the right bank, 130 miles from the mouth of the river, which up to this point is navigable during the open season for small steamers. Glenora is the main distributing point for the mines of Cassiar.

On a stream 30 miles above Glenora a good seam of coal has been found.

For 60 miles in this vicinity the river runs in a deep canon dug out of volcanic rock.

The river enters the mountains at the Grand Rapid. The change is almost instantaneous from the dry, arid ridges and stunted pines of the central plateau to the serrated, rugged, and confused mountain peaks of the Granite Range. For 20 miles the river runs about due south; it then turns nearly southeast, and runs on that course for 17 miles.

The topography of the mountains on both banks, thus far, is exceedingly rough. Nothing like distinct arrangement is observable. The mountains appear in isolated ridges and groups of steep, sharp, rocky peaks, varying in altitude from 1,500 to 4,000 feet.

The soil of the valley-bottom is loose and sandy, and sustains a growth of cotton-wood and large poplar; the mountain sides for a considerable distance up are well wooded with coniferous trees; the higher portions are in many instances covered with snow, and destitute alike of soil and vegetation.

The solid granite structure terminates 39 miles below the Grand Rapid or 69 miles from the sea, and for this latter distance the prevailing rock is a slaty diorite with frequent exposures of gray and black slates, the latter more noticeable along the delta of the river and near the town of Wrangel.

From the locality of this change in the rock structure the river runs on an average course of due south for 30 miles, and the mountains assume a more rounded appearance.

Thirty-two miles from its mouth and opposite a ridge of rough, rocky peaks on its left bank, the Stickine is joined from the east by the Iskoot River. The valley of this river is broad and level, and extends for some distance nearly due east; it then turns southeast towards the Narse River, near which the south branch of the Iskoot originates.

The Iskoot River seems to encircle on the east the range of “mountains parallel to the coast,” the eastern slope of which it drains.

The Indians are said to travel along the valley of this river from the Stickine to Fort Simpson in six days.

From the junction of the Iskoot with the Stickine, looking nearly due south down the valley of the latter, can be seen, distant 12 miles, a range of high snowy summits stretching across the bearing of the river. These mountains appear rounded, massive, and higher than any yet met with, and seem to form a barrier across the valley, which here opens out into a wide basin inclosed on the east and west side by high mountains, and receiving the Kwahteetah, a considerable stream, from the eastward.

This basin lies near the general axis of the range, which has been before referred to as the mountains parallel to the coast.

The line marked on the river as the boundary between the Dominion and the Territory of Alaska crosses the lower end of the basin above described and will be more particularly noticed below.

Turned abruptly aside from its southward course by this mountain barrier, the river seeks a course of north 59° west, and continues thus longitudinally through the heart of the range for 8½ miles. It then runs south 75° west for 5¾ miles, and thence south 36° west 8 miles, to Point Rothesay, a low promontory on its left bank near the coast line and the initial point of this survey.

A barren sandy tract extends along the river valley for 12 miles above Rothesay Point, named appropriately “The Desert” by early explorers.

A wide tract of sandy flats, covered at high water, extends from the river-mouth to the north and westward.

A branch, leaving the main river 8⅓ miles from its mouth, falls into Frederick Sound, in latitude 56° 48ʹ north.

The remarkable glaciers found on the right bank of the river may he incidentally referred to here. They are seven in number, the first 11½ and the last 95 miles from the river-mouth. The most interesting is the Great Glacier opposite the Ice Mountain Hotel, 36.37 miles from the coast. It extends along the river 3½ miles. Its surface slopes gently to the river, and, though apparently even, is gashed by numerous deep crevices. It presents to the east, fronting the river nearly along its whole length, a rough, perpendicular face 380 feet high.

The source of this glacier is unknown, but it is said to have been traced to the northward for 80 miles, and seems to lie along the shaded eastern flanks of the coast mountains.

Considering the narrow limits within which the operations of the survey were necessarily confined, it is evident that to have determined a point on this boundary, stretching as it does along the summit of a rough mountain range whose position and features are little known, was a work not free from difficulty.

It is, however, confidently believed that, should a more extended examination at any future time be made, the following results would be deemed satisfactory:

1. Having identified Rothesay Point on the coast at the delta of the Stickine River, a monument was erected thereon, from which the survey of the river was commenced, and from which was estimated the ten marine leagues referred to in the convention. This monument consists of an earth pyramid 10 feet wide at the base and 6 feet high, with a post in the center 8 feet high and 12 inches square, upon which was written, “Stackine River Boundary Survey, initial point, latitude 56° 34ʹ 10ʺ N., longitude 132° 29ʹ W. 1877.”

2. A survey was made of the river for 53.99 miles up, which enabled me to mark a point on the left bank thereof ten marine leagues from the coast. The angles were taken with a transit, the bearings checked by true azimuths, and the measurements effected by chaining.

To mark the point ten marine leagues from the coast, a cottonwood-tree was cut off 9 feet from the ground, and squared for 3 feet to a size of 14 inches, around which a protective cribbing of logs was built. On the west face of this post, or stump, fronting the river, was written the following: “10 marine leagues (or 182.595 ft.), at right angles, or N. 58° E., astr’l, from a line bearing N. 32° W., astr’l, and passing through a monument on Rothesay Point, mouth of river, N. 32° W., astr’l, being the general bearing of the coast-line. 20th April, 1877.”

The following bearing-trees were observed and marked:

The point thus fixed is on a cottonwood flat, on the east bank, 20 feet above the level of the river and 35 feet east of high-water mark.

3. In surveying the river, all the features on it of consequence were noted. The exact position of the Canadian custom-house and other buildings have been laid down on the plan herewith submitted. The position and height of several of the highest mountains were determined by triangulation and sextant altitudes.

4. My attention has been given to a tracing made by his honor Chief Justice Begbie, on which is a red dotted line, believed to have been laid down by the Chief Justice to mark the intersection of the Stickine Valley by a line connecting the nearest peaks on either side of the coast range of mountains.

5. I have verified this sketch, and represented on the plan, by a blue, broken, dotted line, the approximate position of the red dotted line on the sketch of the chief justice. The crossing of the river (which occurs within ten marine leagues of the coast) by a line, in the words of the treaty, “following the summit of the mountains parallel to the coast,” is shown on the plan by a red, broken, dotted line.

6. This line crosses the center of the Stickine at a point in latitude 56° 38ʹ 17ʺ north, and longitude 131° 58ʹ 14ʺ, distant from the mountain [monument?] on Rothesay Point by the river 24.74 miles, and from the coast line in a direction at right angles thereto 19.13 miles.

Ten miles south 73° 45ʹ east from this crossing is situated Mount Whipple, the highest summit visible from the vicinity of the river. Its altitude is 6,200 feet above the level of the sea.

From Mount Whipple the summit line runs south 88° west, connecting two high mountains, the altitudes of which above the sea are 5,000 and 4,500 feet.

From the last of these mountains the line crosses the river on a bearing of north 8° 50ʹ west to a mountain 3,863 feet high, on the right bank, and thence the summit, as seen from the top of a high mountain opposite the mouth of Iskoot River, seems to run in a direction parallel to the coast.

The line thus established along the general summit of the mountains parallel to the coast is marked on each side of the river by a post 18 by 14 inches and 9 feet long. These posts, 4,329 feet apart, are sunk in the ground 4½ feet, and protected by cribbing of logs 9 feet square and 6 feet high.

Bearing-trees were observed and marked as follows: To the post on north or right bank of river, 30 feet north from high-water mark:

To the post on south or left bank, 20 feet south from high-water mark:

The line was produced from the north boundary-post to the base of the high ground on the north side of the valley, a distance of 2,900 feet, where a spruce line-tree 16 inches diameter was blazed and marked, and from which the following bearing-trees were taken:

7. The general bearing of the coast has been taken as north 32° west, or south 32° east (true), and the ten marine leagues have been estimated at right angles thereto, or north 58° east.

8. I was fortunate in securing the professional assistance of Mr. W. W. Russell, who has contributed largely to the results above stated.

I have, &c.,